Monday, July 20, 2009

Day 19: Back to the Beginning

Left Parnu, another bus trip through oddly familiar forests (disorientation never fails when you wake up and think you're in the U.P. when looking out the window dazed).

Arrived at the Hotel G9 in Tallinn and after we drop off our stuff, roommate and I decided to wander the Old Town, for old time's sake. We actually stumbled across previously unvisited locations by following the wall of the Old Town, past many stops of wood and yarn crafts being sold for more kroon then they might have been worth. We wandered the cobblestone until we came across the Tallinn City Museum. Definitely worth the 15 kroon it took the get in with a student discount. It covered everything from the development of society in Tallinn to the Soviet occupation. Had hundreds of intriguing artifacts plus some intuitive information displays (mostly translated into English too). One of the best museums of the trip.

Afterwards, we headed further into places undwelled upon our first trip to Tallinn. We headed to St. Olaf's, a church with some dark legends in its past. We took the opportunity to walk up to the top of the tower and see new views of Tallinn's Old Town and the surrounding newer town. It was a tight squeeze at time but we made it in the end, with lots of photos as proof. From this lofty perch, we spotted a strange looking structure, made up of concrete and stairs, set up on the shore. We decided to explore this mysterious location. Turns out it was Linnahall, one of the structures built in the Soviet era during the 1980 Olympics. It looks something like an abandoned Ferry station with all its doors boarded up and graffiti spread on many of its surfaces. It echoed of the bygone Soviet days with its dark arches and crumbling stairwells. Through the doors seats of an auditorium stand out from the gloom, and hints of empty offices can be see past crooked shades. Surreal but worthwhile place to wander.

We headed down to the sounds of music and the beach, where a maritime celebration was happening. Old ships docked nearby as foods from local vendors were being flaunted. We grabbed some fresh doughnuts on the fly.

In the evening, we went to the Chicago 1933, a very atmospheric locale with some decidedly American fare.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Day 18: 'Tan'

Another day to the beach, this time to 'tan.' The problem there is that I don't tan as much burn. You can pretty much predict the outcome of that endevour.

Before that, the day started off with a trip with roommate to the small exhibits at the Museum of New Art located a short way from our hostel. The oil paintings section were by far the better part of the exhibit, while the "Man and Woman" exhibit...well, let's just say I wasn' able to take pictures of that part due to content issues most of the time.

In all, Parnu has turned into a fantastic location to have some free time to wander around. It's a beach town through and through, with its little cafes and seaside boardwalk. And, though the weather helped, it has a nice sunny comfortable feel to its parks and long tree lined streets.

For dinner we went to a somewhat old Russian fare. There were pig ears involved. Last dinner with the entire group together. Yep, a nice small group full of people with various quirks and oddness, but, we've gotten along well, enduring trials and tribulations across the wilds of Estonia. Or just fending off paperboys.

The day was finished with a trek to their seawall to watch the sunset. Actually, since its the Baltic Sea to the east, the sun was setting off behind the trees, but a trip to the seawall was worth it, seeing the sea and birds turn peach, violet, and indigo with the shifting skies. We heard the pounding of the seaside club coming across the water, the whisper of waves, and slight cries of surprise as we tried to keep balence on the rocks of the seawall.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Day 17: Everything Old is New

Free day. Quiet day which I took the time to finish up postcards on the beach and wander down the beach. Also through the bookstore for a while, which is always an intriguing interlude. I find it interesting to find some translated books that are actually from the 80s and are new to the Estonian bookstore. There are also people I've seen with in-line skates a few times.

I mean, I've seen the same sort of thing in Finland, but it brings to mind that there is a section of popular culture that Estonia didn't even experience from the 40s to the 80s, so many types of books and music and movies they didn't have access to. Even the DVD and Music shelves are filled with every type of music from all stages of that time. The point is, for Estonia, is everything old is new. They have decades to discover and enjoy.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Day 16: In the dumps

The lecture of the day was by Garri Raagmaa and it laid out how geography works on a population level and how it affects construction of buildings of the past and future. Definitely gave a lot of information about various cases around the country. From huge sports complexes that are located in small towns who don't have the resources to upkeep them to the problems with trying to keep new buildings under certain restrictions. The methods used for building under the Soviet control obviously do not work in the new Estonia, and many abandoned buildings are left from the Soviet legacy. From the lecture it is certain that construction projects come down to three things. Location, location, location.

After this, we went to the Paikuse Waste Products Center, which turned out to be the equivalent of the Keeweenaw's waste management facilities. This is where all the recycling and garbage is brought to be separated and sent to whatever locations they will be processed or disposed of. Definitely one of the more colorful locations on the trip, mostly because of piles of empty and broken glass bottles, along with cubes of what appeared to be dirty laundry. After this, we went to one of the five landfills in Estonia. There used to be more, but ten of the landfills were closed down a few years back to come under EU regulations. Soon, they hope that they won't even need to use landfills because they shall use the extra waste to produce energy, but that is still far into the future.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Day 15: Swamps and Bogs

Down to the last page of the schedule. To the last adventures in Estonia. To the last restaurants and cobblestone streets and faces and confusions while trying to order doughnuts.

Today was one of the more different excursions during our trip, off to the realms of the the Soomaa nature reserve, to become one with nature. Of course, becoming one with nature consists mostly of flailing as mosquito and other bugs come from all angles of attack, and we had a good dose of that. The enthusiasm and experience of our guide, however, pulled us through the worse and presented us the best the reserve had to offer.

Certainly, he guide had a flair that got me interested in the most odd details about the local bog and swamp area. From the flytrap plants that drapple the bog with red to the animal life that swims the river.

It started off with a 7 km canoe trip, which I paddled through well, despite some slight zig-zagging which my parner tried to fend off as best she could. We traveled between untouched forests...untouched because the area used to be off limits due to a local Russian army base. Dragonflies hovered in our wake and the occasional horsefly caused some canoe rocking.

The second part was the slight hike through the woods, which turned into a good natured flailing jog to avoid bugs. Mercifully, the bug wave subsided on the bog. The area looked not unlike scenes of the savanna in Africa, large grassy expanse filled with straggled trees. The grass was actually more moss, which was bouncy when stepped on, half the color of dried grass that fought with redness. (Red seemed to be a theme in the bog, including the odd red hue of the lakes.)

Definitely an impressive adventure into the wilds of Estonia, even more-so than our island visit. The bugs speak greatly of U.P. wilderness.

The trip finished up with best darn homemade meal that we've been served this entire trip. Stew, homemade bread and cake and meat-filled pastries. The mouthwatering content is impossibly to properly describe.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Day 14: Lady with Foxes and Rapids of Doom

The classic tour of the city day. Definitely the most sprawling of the tours so far (though perhaps not as much as the many kilometer tour in Saaremaa) from the balcony monument where Estonian independence was first declared in 1919, back to the white beaches. This was interluded by a tour of an allergy free inn by a rather eccentric lady who proceeded to pinch my ribs out into her garden to see the flowers and take pictures. (That inn was actually quite a fun little tangent complete with fox statues, glowing eyed owls, frogs, and a picture of the owner when she was an actress.) The tour showed that Parnu has been a beach town for practically hundreds of years now. There was some rough bits, where the population fell to about seven, but its kept moving on, as Estonia has done, through many occupations and wars, keeping their culture with them along the way.

The tour was followed by the Tervise Paradiis spa and Biggest Water Park in Estonia.

I shall put it shortly: IT WAS BLOODY AWESOME.

The rapids slide (with whirlpools, odd turns, cauldrons, and drop offs...without a inter-tube) gave me a new love for waterparks. The other waterslides were overrated (I only say this because my billowy shorts acted as water parachutes that stopped me midway into the Tunnel o' Blackness).

Monday, July 13, 2009

Day 13: Justice, Steel, and the Beach Way

The city tour on the schedule did not quite happen as plan, despite every single girl on the trip having brought (or bought) an umbrella for the dreary rain that covered the city this morning. Just as well. That's why schedules have loopholes for possible event switching, which is why our lecture on Human Rights Protection Mechanisms in Europe happened today.

The lecturer, a main component behind the whole Estonian program, and a social science professor at the University of Tartu, Dr. Mart Susi, gave us a good layout of what in Europe makes sure that human rights issues are settled. This brought about the "Council of Europe" which we hadn't heard much about in all previous lectures. The main difference with the Council of Europe, it seems, is that almost all countries are included from the European continent, including the much maligned Turkey. Under this council, there is the Court of Human Rights based in Strasbourg, France. They base their decisions off the European Convention which is made up of 14 Protocols to protect human rights. The foundation of this court is not to reward an exorbant compensation, but to make sure justice has been served.

Some basic points about the Council's stand were covered. For one thing, the death penalty is NOT allowed. If a country who wants to submit the death penalty wants a subject to be transported back, the Council of Europe will not allow the country to have the subject. The subjects of abortion and euthanasia are still under debate. The court of HRs also covers subjects about anonymous witness to unreasonable arrest. But the interesting point about the court's decisions is they don't quite have to be followed by Council of Europe countries, because the court doesn't really have the power to force them onto other governments. At times, one wonders how much power they actually have besides suggestion.

After the lecture we went to the metal products manufacturer, Ruukki, a Finnish based company in Parnu. The company supplies products across the Baltic States from building frames to roofing supplies. Speaking of the roofs, we saw those being created by series of metal disks and conveyor belts and it was, for lack of a better word, cool.

The rest of the day was spent wandering aimlessly to the beach by a more abstract route. Detours though parks, yards, crooked streets and plaza stretches, which gave many nice images for the mind to debate. And by images, I mean digital photos complete with odd expressions and poses. The beach continues to a nice setting and we tried the most strange seesaw I've ever encountered. My arms weren't quite strong enough for the thing. It was like a mix of jungle gum and a fulcrum.

Yep, that's about as scary as it sounds.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Day 12: To the Beach

Back to the mainland. Reeds and swans blur past, sometimes flying along side the bus, as we head back to the ferry.

O O O

Trip back into the mainland and a whole new setting altogether: the summer capital of Estonia, Parnu. Bright, sunny, and possibly the most foliage we've seen in an actual city. Sure, both Tallinn and Tartu had a good amount of parks hugging the fringes of their cityscapes, but in Parnu the green mingles with the streets no matter which way you choose to walk. Parks of all shapes, drappled with even more statues and monuments than Tartu, weave in and out traffic. It definitely has that summer tourist destination feel to it, without feeling as artificial as somewhere like a beachtown in Florida or even Honolulu. Sure, this isn't a tropical paradise, but there's still a blue sea spreading into the horizon.

OK, actually, we trod to the beach, following the impressively helpful street signs for wayward walkers, and it was a deep green color, not quite blue. Still, though I did not go skipping through the waves, I was told that the water was warm, and it require swimming as we spend more time here. Which shall be a good long week.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Day 11: Kuressaare and Windmills

A morning and charming breakfast and we were off to storm the castle.

Sorry for the reference. Actually, we went back to the town we had briefly visited the day before, Kuressaare, this time with a all-knowing tour guide to led our way. The main part of the tour settled on the local castle fortress, very nicely restored, complete with moat. Down though dolomite stone corridors and stairwell, this was certainly one of the better castles I've encounter since my Finnish trip back eight years ago. Another example of the nooks of history that Estonia possesses in its soil. There was even a skeleton of a knight built into a cellar, included with morbid tale of forbid love and the old punishments for impiety. It /is/ a Mideast castle after all. Though the stuffed animals in the basement were very worn and photogenic.

From the castle we moved to the crater lake, a perfectly round lake in the middle of a crater, were a meteorite hit (maybe) over 3,000 years ago. The exact time cannot be agreed, though legends of fire in the sea echo through the ages. No substantial or written evidence has been discovered. Yet. We then, various snacks in hand from the shop near the crater (I got these garlic bread bites...otherwise known as Bad Breath Producers), went forth to windmills. None of them were actually spinning, which is understandable, because I don't imagine that spinning lumber would be safe to be near unsupervised.

The last stop was one of the four ancient churches on the island. Our guide pointed out the pagan symbols meant to ward off evil spirits, something conflicting with the church setting. Churches have come a long ways.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Day 10: Island Paradise

Onward, away from Tartu, into the wilds of Estonia. Or at least onto a ferry and onto the island of Saaremaa.

I have to say, the more of the woods we see sliding past the bus windows, the more home, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, is brought to mind. Sure, there's less hills and different foliage but when waking up from a nap and looking dazed out at the landscape, the difference can't be told right away. There are the fields (except with more yellow flowers at times), the old farm houses, and the mix between evergreen and deciduous trees.

These are the thoughts that spin by during one of the more lengthy transits of the trip. That, and enjoying the new amount of space now that the San Diego section of our group went to St. Petersburg (somehow, I am not welding any huge sense of jealousy at that development).

A ferry ride on a smaller boat than I'm used to was different. Different mostly because though I thought I couldn't feel the rocking, my walking path would prove me drunken if I were on land. It swerved oddly no matter how hard I tried to take direct paths. The water was a merky green and the skies were gloomy, but the sea was relatively calm on the short ride to the island.

The island was bigger than expected. The "quick ride" to the tourist farm we were staying ended up being an hour, but that made the site of the destination all the more sweeter. Really. Cor. The tourist farm was a picture postcard of rustic Estonian life complete with comfortable beds, open fields, and some of the nicest layouts of food I've seen this entire trip. And the host was one of those sorts that made sure every detail was to the guest's satisfaction. Incredibly nice, nice, and nice. Good place to lay back and consider the trip so far and catch up on some reading in the fresh country air.

And a nap or two.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Day 9: The Christmas Goat Cometh

Last day in Tartu. What was going to prove to be a very quiet day. In theory. In reality, that didn't happen because we ended up being yanked to the A. Le Coq Beer Museum and Brewery. I didn't expect much, we were told that only an Estonian guide was available so I foresaw the event being a session in extreme linquistic egg-tossing and/or charades.

This prediction did not turn out anywhere near the truth.

Thanks to the presence of a world-hopping Canadian with impeccable Estonian language skills, the tour through the beer making process and history was perhaps the best tour of the trip so far. And I'm not even a huge beer fan. There wasn't even any points where I was dazed and stared out the window at the local bird populations (usually pigeons or corvids). This gave a nice view of the importance of beer manufacturing in Estonia over the past few centuries and how the frothy liquid is made. That, and the old tour guide was just so gosh darn likable, with a quirk mixed in with the information that I don't think could have been presented better (our spur-of-the-moment translator totally helped). There was also free samples in the end. I have not much to say about that except for the bottles have have an awesome bottom that can actually open other beer bottles.

Europe has a different way of looking at beer than America does.

We went right to the Estonian National Museum from there and right into the midst of life-size versions of ancient dwellings and enough costumes to clothe most of Tartu and the outlaying regions. It's amazing how much tradition the country has retained despite being under the rule of other people for most of its existence. I see some similarities to Finnish culture but in all, its distinctly Estonian through and through. It's retained its own flavor of tradition and history and the Christmas goat. (And on that note: the Christmas goat is the best tradition costume ever. One of the more amusing remnants of Christmas tradition that I've seen in a museum. Plus, Santa sounds like a fly-by-night comedian who gets gifts for the bemusement he brings.) The puzzle games of old remain the same...and just about as maddening.

Last on the day's docket was the Estonian National Court, led by a legal minded guide who still gave a nice layout of both the building and how the legal system of Estonia works. I also find it interesting how its youngest member is only thirty and it actually has a sixty-eight year age limit. Definitely shows another example of A) how young Estonia is in its government and B) its open-mindedness to younger points of view. I just think of our own Supreme Court and all of members over the age of seventy that seem to be behind the gravel.

The rest of the day was filled with jelly-slathered pancake and a session of watching one our group ride a mechanical bull. And in between that, was a session of watching some beach volleyball.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Day 8: Going Wilde and Toying About

A relatively quiet day. I type this as I'm sitting in a park near the dorms near a statue of a bearded guy sitting with a book in his lap. He looks a little like Santa Claus in a robe. A nice place to reflect and get away from the rigors of adventuring through Tartu.

Today, the lecture topic, from the same lecturer as yesterday, Eiki Berg, traveled down the road of energy and border issues with Russia. As with most issues with Russia, there are many, many complications. The problem is that Estonia gets 100% of its natural gas from Russia. The other Baltic states have similar energy obligations. When you have those sorts of dependences with someone as unpredictable and odd as Russia, alternatives need to be found. The problem: where? Russia is the only accessible source at this time.

Then there's the weirdness with the Baltic Sea Gas Pipeline that is being proposed. The Nordic countries don't like the idea, but they've been outvoted by the rest of the EU countries. It seems a little uneven considering the building of it doesn't affect the countries voting for it. Yet another questionable circumstance of the EU influence.

The next part of the lecture dwelt with the border issues between southeast Estonia and Russia. This was interluded with political comics that give a toonish perspective on various parts of the issue. As it stands, it doesn't seem that the border will ever be ratified in the near future. The ambiguity is undesired, but its complicated for either side to back down, so a stalemate will have to do for now.

For lunch, we got lured to the Edward Wilde Cafe and Restaurant, where I ordered the tasty sounding "Fried Ravioli." And they were tasty. Just nice meat pockets o' fried dough. Complete with bread and, lo and behold, Butter. Though there has been bread served with most meals, Butter has not. It might be the American heart beating in my soul, but I've missed butter to put on my bread at a restaurant. (And its only been a week away. I'm a sad soul.) Even without the butter, the bread was still some of the best of the trip.

After posing on the Oscar Wilde sitting outside on a bench, we proceeded to wander forth to the KGB Cells Museum. It told of all the transgressions that Estonians had to face from the Russians and Germans in the 40s, and then onward from the Soviet control all the way until the 80s. From those sent to Siberia to the ones held in the cells we were shown. This just got more dark as we were told about the conditions and treatments they were subjected too. Obliviously the most depressing location we've visited so far. But I can see why such a museum needs to be there, to enlighten people to the dark past and to avoid similar horrible darkness in the future.

Finally, we wandered off back to old town. Off to the Artisan's House, where we saw wares from cloths and ribbons, to glass and fur. An impressive layout of some great pieces of art and a look at the people in the process of making them. Across the street, we caved and went to the Toy Museum. I think that images of teddy bears and Barbies shall be dancing through my daydreams for days afterwards...against my will. Fun place to wander about and see all those toys from the past that I would have wished I could have played with as a kid.

Only one more day to wander about Tartu.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Day 7: The EU Boys' Club and Pineapple

The more I hear about the European Union, the more skeptical I become about it. Mostly because the more details I hear, the more it sounds like exclusive club that's really tough to qualify for. Some of the requirements make sense, but many of them end up sounding rather extraneous. The Turkey issue is one of the more questionable parts of the EU policies. From some view points, instead of expanding the rights of smaller countries, the EU appears to actually restain some rights, putting all the bigger countries in the group until main control (which brings back the issue of Turkey. If it were accepted it, it would just as powerful as the most populated EU member, Germany, and that is something the major power really don't want).

Estonia wanted to be in the EU more for a symbolic status, to achieve the mythical "back to Europe" aesthetic. But in the long run, was that the right choice? Again, only the future can tell.

After this extreme four hour dive into Estonian and EU economics, a lunch was required. I took a safe risk with pancakes stuffed with chicken. What one must remember when ordering anything on a European menu, what is on the menu is not always the full story. There is also some little quirk that they add to the mix that makes you raise a brow.

In this case, it was the pineapple chunked among the chicken. I guess it sooooorta makes sense, to add a little sweetness, but it really didn't work for me. Didn't help that it wasn't the most quality of chicken either. The pancake...well, it was a Nordic style thin pancake. I feel bad that the pancake was lost within the package. It deserved better, like strawberry jam. I think I shall arrange that before I leave Tartu.

I met with the Tallinn girl and her Denmark friend at pancake cafe near the town square (which, if I haven't mentioned, has the Cheesiest Fountain Ever of who lovers kissing under an umbrella. It requires photos at some point.) Even more random conversation transpired. They might be following me to Saaremaa, the island we're visiting this weekend...but at a different part of the island perhaps.

The day tied with a Baltic restaurant with possibly the best meatball I have ever tasted. Well, besides my mom's meatballs, but I'm required by unspoken law to say that. It had just the right mix of spices to make each bite downright heavenly. A pity there was only two largish ones. I also polished off the feta cheese left over from the stuffed red pepper (the pepper had been share amoung the group). There was also wine. We got a crash course in wine testing from one of our group so that I was using words like "subtle bite" and "smooth taste" to describe it.

Very nice restaurant to tie up the day. Complete with somewhat heated debate about philosophy books about politics and war and religion. Also the art of classics versus the joy of fluff reads. Good times.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Day 6: Disconcerting Statues and Estonian Independence

Tartu is much like my own college down, except with older buildings, cobblestone streets, and a disconcerting amount of statues. With all the cafes and bookstores and general college atmosphere, it also brings Ann Arbor to mind. I like it better than the more closed in streets and tall industrial buildings of Tallinn.

There is also no way to get lost in this town. Sooner or later you'll make it back to the city square, no matter what wooded path you might take. I had a fun time wandering about for an hour between lectures, encountering monuments and statues aplenty, a boy and his dog, two lovers on the Dome Hill (I think i was interrupting), and the structures of a bombed semi-reconstructed cathedral. It has a nice quiet atmosphere that you don't get in Tallinn...that, and I believe that most of the potential tourists were at the Song Festival.

The lectures opened up new doors to Estonian culture. First was the talk on economics, that went pretty in depth on all the aspects of the rise and now decline of the Estonian finacial climate. Estonia, of course, had huge increases in the economy since the fall of the Soviet Union when they gained independence. The only question is how far they could go until their highly liberal tactics came back to haunt them. What effect will being partnered with the EU have? Where do they go from here? Where they are right now remains undisturbed grown and the future is a huge question mark.

The second lecture explained some of the chances they took in forming their economy. Dr, Marju Lauristin gave us the sociology perspective of Estonia during and after the fall of the Soviet control. Before they gained independence, they had a better view of how a free country worked through watching Finnish television. That was the only link to the outside world that they had. So when they were released, part of them already leaned towards a more Scandinavian policy. In the end, they just tried to be as different than the Soviet system that they could. It was a younger country run by a young generation who made many new and radial policies to get the country up and running. Now, after the transition, the same question mark appears. Where does Estonia go now that the economy is tapering off? What is their position in Europe? The trail goes forth into a haze.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Day 5: Russian Commentation and a Bus Breakdown

Another day, another cup of tea, and a transfer to Tartu.

I seem to be spending much more money on tea and coffee than usual. This morning I met with the ever present Tallin girl and her friend from Denmark (not Norway...which for some reason I thought for the first few times we met.) The led to another random conversation about plots and movies and British television. Just a casual interlude of odd topics.

What we didn't consider was who was overhearing our conversation.

When we were about to leave, a older lady came up to us: gray hair, glasses, a white Nevada - Las Vegas shirt on. She said something along the lines of "Excuse me for interrupting. I just overheard you, and I was wondering if you were from America." I said I was, and my friends said their respective nationalities. The lady's eyes lit up and she said, "Oh, I just needed to say how beautiful your English is, especially your American English. It is a beautiful how you use it." And she continued on this line, saying how the British only believe in the Queen's English and believe American English is dirty and how she was Russian and had a son in Florida. She was smiling the whole way through and commending us all the whole way how wonderful our English was spoken ("Specially your American English" she insisted).

That's not something I would have expected to encounter, especially from someone from Russia. Sure, she had a background from the US but really I've never really would have expected to have anyone say how significant my English was. As the cliches go, one would think more Europeans would frown upon American English, as the lady said. Her perspective really makes me wonder about the way I use the language, and the way that American English is viewed by others. Perhaps this is one of those situations coming to Europe is all about.

The transfer to Tartu was uneventful...except for the bus breaking down. The funny part was how casual everyone took this event. The way everyone reacted, it just felt like a little pit stop at a mysterious run down building in between yellow bloomed fields (and on that note, graffiti content is the same everywhere). The bus stopped, and we just waited for the other to pick us up. Simple as that. We are getting infected by the European way of patience.

We finally got to Tartu and had dinner at somewhere that might have been a Mexican place. I got "Chicken Kiev stuffed with butter." Yep, it was Rather Tasty. It came with french fries...one of those foods I didn't think I would see until back in the States. I munched on them happily enough.

More on Tartu in the next entry.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Day 4: Epic Parade is Epic

The day off. Sorta. Nothing to been done before the parade and the following Song Festival. And that is somewhat true. But not really.

For lunch, I met up with a Finnish friend who was visiting Tallinn, Marita, and her daughter, Kristiina, and son, Ossi, which went great. We went to a medieval restaurant with an interesting menu and I unwittingly got a salad. All was not lost. Most the salad was topped by four kinds of great meat (all juicy or spiced or generally tasty) and you know I don't mind salad anyway. During of which we discussed the legal system of Finland, because Kristinna happened to be a lawyer.

Also, met up with the Estonian local again and her friend from Denmark for the parade. She gave me background information on various parts of the parade including the meaning and history of certain sections of the country. There's Americans and Canadians that participate in the song fest. The parade lasted from 2 pm to 6 pm, putting the parades in the U.P. of Michigan to shame. FOUR HOURS.

Such a parade can only lead to a pretty epic choir, correct?

You bet your pasty it does.

It's hard to describe a choir of over 26,000 singing together and I think this may be the only place in the world that one can experience such a phenomena. It's like the entire populations of Houghton and Hancock coming together and singing the Copper Country Anthem (whatever that is). But there is an extra beauty behind this if know a little of the Estonian history. This is a reprensetation of Estonia, people from all over the country, rising with one voice.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Day 3: Parliament in Pink

A pink Parliament building. Seems like a strange color scheme for a place where the main government meets to deam what is right for good of the country. But that's what it was when it was first built, and that is what it shall remain until someone thinks that a nice teal would represent the place much better. The inside was filled with many triangles and sharp edges of a modernism design, which we were told is the only parliament building that has such a design. But the really cool part of the tour was meeting with Taavi Roivas.

Mr. Roivas has to be the most casual, young, and coolest politician I've met (not that I've met many politicians). He's been in politics for almost 11 years and he's just turned thirty. This means he started it at the ripe age of nineteen and he has a fresh perspective of looking at policies and issues. His iPhone was in prominent view and the moment the meeting ended he started tapping at his screen. He gave us some interesting facts about the tax policies in Estonia and how to make taxes that people can't avoid. He also laid out the plan of how he helped in writing a plan that will raise the birth rate in his already small country. I'm now jealous that Estonians only have to take five minutes to do their tax returns.

Next on the docket was wandering to the KUMU Estonia Art Museum. On the way we went through a park which had sinister signs warning of the squirrel population. I saw no squirrels but did see bright gardens and a decoy art museum and a choir of Estonian women in traditional dress (not the last time, I assure you) and then a very abstract design of KUMU. Parts of it were drappled over a garden spreading out from a steel crescent (slab?) that was the main building. The inside had even more of these doses of abstraction, including free lockers. From classics to pop to modern, all sorts of art were seen as our tour guide practically teleported from room to room while we scampered behind. I also discovered that the taboo of touching paintings can be broken...or can it...I'm really not sure. Kinda went all raccoon-in-headlights when it happened and blanked out, and kept myself from hyperventilation.

After these adventures in KUMU, I went by myself back to the Old Town, where I met with a Estonian local girl who goes to the Estonian Academy of the Arts and her friend visiting from Denmark. I shall insist this was the flavor of culture, since we got tea at a really neat basement cafe with a cozy setting and eight workers somehow contained within a working area filled with java machines and espresso makers. The conversation was decidedly random.

Then came the Dance Festival. In a word, wow. A rotating series of water-like motions spinning over a soccer field, blurring colors of Estonian old dress and the dances to classical jaunts. Over eight thousand people in sequence somehow following what must have been the most extensive choreographic effort I've ever seen and ever shall see until the entire Copper Country decides to break it down.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Day 2: The Mistaken Kroon

The day started groggily. Nothing done the previous evening except going to bed at 24.00. The lingering effect of flights and a full day of events was a bogging experience. Odd to sleep with the lingering etherally glow through the windows the entire night. It shall take some getting used to. Perhaps it was the huge meal the night before, complete with a leg of lamb and a scone with a sweet/sour half of an apple inside and an epic drunken swordfight. It was a great meal at the Peppersack with succulent food and medieval atmosphere.

The first part of the day was taken up by a session on e-Government and the wired nature of Estonian polictics and society at the University of Tallinn. Estonia has taken leaps and bounds after the fall of the Soviet Union to get in pace technology-wise with the rest of the world. At least 80% of Estonians are Internet users and its evident WiFi sign are sprinkled everywhere in the city.

In the break we headed to the streets, stopping at a cafe for a quick lunch, Where I grabbed a shot of coffee, a strudel filled with cream cheese and slight bit of apple, and also a surprisingly tasty roll with hamburger meat sprinkled throughout.

Afterwards, we went forth to the University for the second presentation, an epic four-hour session on Russian Foreign Policy. The presentation had its slow points , but when he got into the element, and started talking about the true nature of Russian policies and who the real Putin was, it really became an intriguing talk. He was obviously bias (with good reason) but Mr. Mihkelson had extensive knowledge on the subject mixed with his strong opinions about Russian issues. Was a long presentation, but well worth the time.

Then the final event of the day, the city tour about Tallinn, led by a charming lady with a skip in her step and a flame of excitment in her voice. It was a pleasure after the day of sitting in the classroom to get a casual session about the untold stories about Tallinn history and locations. From Tomas the weather vane to the cell that killed a prisoner's mother. She had some great stories and gave us a nice jaunt through the Old Town of Tallinn.

Finally the day settled off with a casual meal setup by the Seigels.

And there was the odd event where I confused a cashier by trying to pay for a 19.90 kroon chocolate bar with a 20 kroon. She wouldn't accept it and this confused me immensely until I just gave up and left without any chocolate. I only realized later that there is no 20 kroon and I had been trying to buy the chocolate with a 20 euro. *slaps forehead* I had been trying to buy a less than $2 purchase with a $25 equivalent.

Continuing forth. Since its the Parliament and and Art Museum and other random events tomorrow, I assume it shall be a more reflective entry then.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Ferry Ride into the Unknown

Day one and already I feel as if I'd been here a week. The restful part of the day was getting to the ol' ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn at 7:30. The trip was uneventful. No iceburgs or storms on the two hour ride to the shores of Estonia. I either spent time seeing at the stern, watching the churning swash of water trail the ship or poke around the ship's shop, looking at the vast array of candies and sweets. I restrained myself from buying any of the options.

When I got to Estonia I was met up by Mr. Siegal who showed me to the facilities, which ended up being only five minutes from the ferry terminal.

The rest of the day was a blur, between presentations and wandering the city.

[To be continued]