Monday, July 20, 2009

Day 19: Back to the Beginning

Left Parnu, another bus trip through oddly familiar forests (disorientation never fails when you wake up and think you're in the U.P. when looking out the window dazed).

Arrived at the Hotel G9 in Tallinn and after we drop off our stuff, roommate and I decided to wander the Old Town, for old time's sake. We actually stumbled across previously unvisited locations by following the wall of the Old Town, past many stops of wood and yarn crafts being sold for more kroon then they might have been worth. We wandered the cobblestone until we came across the Tallinn City Museum. Definitely worth the 15 kroon it took the get in with a student discount. It covered everything from the development of society in Tallinn to the Soviet occupation. Had hundreds of intriguing artifacts plus some intuitive information displays (mostly translated into English too). One of the best museums of the trip.

Afterwards, we headed further into places undwelled upon our first trip to Tallinn. We headed to St. Olaf's, a church with some dark legends in its past. We took the opportunity to walk up to the top of the tower and see new views of Tallinn's Old Town and the surrounding newer town. It was a tight squeeze at time but we made it in the end, with lots of photos as proof. From this lofty perch, we spotted a strange looking structure, made up of concrete and stairs, set up on the shore. We decided to explore this mysterious location. Turns out it was Linnahall, one of the structures built in the Soviet era during the 1980 Olympics. It looks something like an abandoned Ferry station with all its doors boarded up and graffiti spread on many of its surfaces. It echoed of the bygone Soviet days with its dark arches and crumbling stairwells. Through the doors seats of an auditorium stand out from the gloom, and hints of empty offices can be see past crooked shades. Surreal but worthwhile place to wander.

We headed down to the sounds of music and the beach, where a maritime celebration was happening. Old ships docked nearby as foods from local vendors were being flaunted. We grabbed some fresh doughnuts on the fly.

In the evening, we went to the Chicago 1933, a very atmospheric locale with some decidedly American fare.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Day 18: 'Tan'

Another day to the beach, this time to 'tan.' The problem there is that I don't tan as much burn. You can pretty much predict the outcome of that endevour.

Before that, the day started off with a trip with roommate to the small exhibits at the Museum of New Art located a short way from our hostel. The oil paintings section were by far the better part of the exhibit, while the "Man and Woman" exhibit...well, let's just say I wasn' able to take pictures of that part due to content issues most of the time.

In all, Parnu has turned into a fantastic location to have some free time to wander around. It's a beach town through and through, with its little cafes and seaside boardwalk. And, though the weather helped, it has a nice sunny comfortable feel to its parks and long tree lined streets.

For dinner we went to a somewhat old Russian fare. There were pig ears involved. Last dinner with the entire group together. Yep, a nice small group full of people with various quirks and oddness, but, we've gotten along well, enduring trials and tribulations across the wilds of Estonia. Or just fending off paperboys.

The day was finished with a trek to their seawall to watch the sunset. Actually, since its the Baltic Sea to the east, the sun was setting off behind the trees, but a trip to the seawall was worth it, seeing the sea and birds turn peach, violet, and indigo with the shifting skies. We heard the pounding of the seaside club coming across the water, the whisper of waves, and slight cries of surprise as we tried to keep balence on the rocks of the seawall.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Day 17: Everything Old is New

Free day. Quiet day which I took the time to finish up postcards on the beach and wander down the beach. Also through the bookstore for a while, which is always an intriguing interlude. I find it interesting to find some translated books that are actually from the 80s and are new to the Estonian bookstore. There are also people I've seen with in-line skates a few times.

I mean, I've seen the same sort of thing in Finland, but it brings to mind that there is a section of popular culture that Estonia didn't even experience from the 40s to the 80s, so many types of books and music and movies they didn't have access to. Even the DVD and Music shelves are filled with every type of music from all stages of that time. The point is, for Estonia, is everything old is new. They have decades to discover and enjoy.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Day 16: In the dumps

The lecture of the day was by Garri Raagmaa and it laid out how geography works on a population level and how it affects construction of buildings of the past and future. Definitely gave a lot of information about various cases around the country. From huge sports complexes that are located in small towns who don't have the resources to upkeep them to the problems with trying to keep new buildings under certain restrictions. The methods used for building under the Soviet control obviously do not work in the new Estonia, and many abandoned buildings are left from the Soviet legacy. From the lecture it is certain that construction projects come down to three things. Location, location, location.

After this, we went to the Paikuse Waste Products Center, which turned out to be the equivalent of the Keeweenaw's waste management facilities. This is where all the recycling and garbage is brought to be separated and sent to whatever locations they will be processed or disposed of. Definitely one of the more colorful locations on the trip, mostly because of piles of empty and broken glass bottles, along with cubes of what appeared to be dirty laundry. After this, we went to one of the five landfills in Estonia. There used to be more, but ten of the landfills were closed down a few years back to come under EU regulations. Soon, they hope that they won't even need to use landfills because they shall use the extra waste to produce energy, but that is still far into the future.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Day 15: Swamps and Bogs

Down to the last page of the schedule. To the last adventures in Estonia. To the last restaurants and cobblestone streets and faces and confusions while trying to order doughnuts.

Today was one of the more different excursions during our trip, off to the realms of the the Soomaa nature reserve, to become one with nature. Of course, becoming one with nature consists mostly of flailing as mosquito and other bugs come from all angles of attack, and we had a good dose of that. The enthusiasm and experience of our guide, however, pulled us through the worse and presented us the best the reserve had to offer.

Certainly, he guide had a flair that got me interested in the most odd details about the local bog and swamp area. From the flytrap plants that drapple the bog with red to the animal life that swims the river.

It started off with a 7 km canoe trip, which I paddled through well, despite some slight zig-zagging which my parner tried to fend off as best she could. We traveled between untouched forests...untouched because the area used to be off limits due to a local Russian army base. Dragonflies hovered in our wake and the occasional horsefly caused some canoe rocking.

The second part was the slight hike through the woods, which turned into a good natured flailing jog to avoid bugs. Mercifully, the bug wave subsided on the bog. The area looked not unlike scenes of the savanna in Africa, large grassy expanse filled with straggled trees. The grass was actually more moss, which was bouncy when stepped on, half the color of dried grass that fought with redness. (Red seemed to be a theme in the bog, including the odd red hue of the lakes.)

Definitely an impressive adventure into the wilds of Estonia, even more-so than our island visit. The bugs speak greatly of U.P. wilderness.

The trip finished up with best darn homemade meal that we've been served this entire trip. Stew, homemade bread and cake and meat-filled pastries. The mouthwatering content is impossibly to properly describe.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Day 14: Lady with Foxes and Rapids of Doom

The classic tour of the city day. Definitely the most sprawling of the tours so far (though perhaps not as much as the many kilometer tour in Saaremaa) from the balcony monument where Estonian independence was first declared in 1919, back to the white beaches. This was interluded by a tour of an allergy free inn by a rather eccentric lady who proceeded to pinch my ribs out into her garden to see the flowers and take pictures. (That inn was actually quite a fun little tangent complete with fox statues, glowing eyed owls, frogs, and a picture of the owner when she was an actress.) The tour showed that Parnu has been a beach town for practically hundreds of years now. There was some rough bits, where the population fell to about seven, but its kept moving on, as Estonia has done, through many occupations and wars, keeping their culture with them along the way.

The tour was followed by the Tervise Paradiis spa and Biggest Water Park in Estonia.

I shall put it shortly: IT WAS BLOODY AWESOME.

The rapids slide (with whirlpools, odd turns, cauldrons, and drop offs...without a inter-tube) gave me a new love for waterparks. The other waterslides were overrated (I only say this because my billowy shorts acted as water parachutes that stopped me midway into the Tunnel o' Blackness).

Monday, July 13, 2009

Day 13: Justice, Steel, and the Beach Way

The city tour on the schedule did not quite happen as plan, despite every single girl on the trip having brought (or bought) an umbrella for the dreary rain that covered the city this morning. Just as well. That's why schedules have loopholes for possible event switching, which is why our lecture on Human Rights Protection Mechanisms in Europe happened today.

The lecturer, a main component behind the whole Estonian program, and a social science professor at the University of Tartu, Dr. Mart Susi, gave us a good layout of what in Europe makes sure that human rights issues are settled. This brought about the "Council of Europe" which we hadn't heard much about in all previous lectures. The main difference with the Council of Europe, it seems, is that almost all countries are included from the European continent, including the much maligned Turkey. Under this council, there is the Court of Human Rights based in Strasbourg, France. They base their decisions off the European Convention which is made up of 14 Protocols to protect human rights. The foundation of this court is not to reward an exorbant compensation, but to make sure justice has been served.

Some basic points about the Council's stand were covered. For one thing, the death penalty is NOT allowed. If a country who wants to submit the death penalty wants a subject to be transported back, the Council of Europe will not allow the country to have the subject. The subjects of abortion and euthanasia are still under debate. The court of HRs also covers subjects about anonymous witness to unreasonable arrest. But the interesting point about the court's decisions is they don't quite have to be followed by Council of Europe countries, because the court doesn't really have the power to force them onto other governments. At times, one wonders how much power they actually have besides suggestion.

After the lecture we went to the metal products manufacturer, Ruukki, a Finnish based company in Parnu. The company supplies products across the Baltic States from building frames to roofing supplies. Speaking of the roofs, we saw those being created by series of metal disks and conveyor belts and it was, for lack of a better word, cool.

The rest of the day was spent wandering aimlessly to the beach by a more abstract route. Detours though parks, yards, crooked streets and plaza stretches, which gave many nice images for the mind to debate. And by images, I mean digital photos complete with odd expressions and poses. The beach continues to a nice setting and we tried the most strange seesaw I've ever encountered. My arms weren't quite strong enough for the thing. It was like a mix of jungle gum and a fulcrum.

Yep, that's about as scary as it sounds.