Back to the mainland. Reeds and swans blur past, sometimes flying along side the bus, as we head back to the ferry.
O O O
Trip back into the mainland and a whole new setting altogether: the summer capital of Estonia, Parnu. Bright, sunny, and possibly the most foliage we've seen in an actual city. Sure, both Tallinn and Tartu had a good amount of parks hugging the fringes of their cityscapes, but in Parnu the green mingles with the streets no matter which way you choose to walk. Parks of all shapes, drappled with even more statues and monuments than Tartu, weave in and out traffic. It definitely has that summer tourist destination feel to it, without feeling as artificial as somewhere like a beachtown in Florida or even Honolulu. Sure, this isn't a tropical paradise, but there's still a blue sea spreading into the horizon.
OK, actually, we trod to the beach, following the impressively helpful street signs for wayward walkers, and it was a deep green color, not quite blue. Still, though I did not go skipping through the waves, I was told that the water was warm, and it require swimming as we spend more time here. Which shall be a good long week.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Day 11: Kuressaare and Windmills
A morning and charming breakfast and we were off to storm the castle.
Sorry for the reference. Actually, we went back to the town we had briefly visited the day before, Kuressaare, this time with a all-knowing tour guide to led our way. The main part of the tour settled on the local castle fortress, very nicely restored, complete with moat. Down though dolomite stone corridors and stairwell, this was certainly one of the better castles I've encounter since my Finnish trip back eight years ago. Another example of the nooks of history that Estonia possesses in its soil. There was even a skeleton of a knight built into a cellar, included with morbid tale of forbid love and the old punishments for impiety. It /is/ a Mideast castle after all. Though the stuffed animals in the basement were very worn and photogenic.
From the castle we moved to the crater lake, a perfectly round lake in the middle of a crater, were a meteorite hit (maybe) over 3,000 years ago. The exact time cannot be agreed, though legends of fire in the sea echo through the ages. No substantial or written evidence has been discovered. Yet. We then, various snacks in hand from the shop near the crater (I got these garlic bread bites...otherwise known as Bad Breath Producers), went forth to windmills. None of them were actually spinning, which is understandable, because I don't imagine that spinning lumber would be safe to be near unsupervised.
The last stop was one of the four ancient churches on the island. Our guide pointed out the pagan symbols meant to ward off evil spirits, something conflicting with the church setting. Churches have come a long ways.
Sorry for the reference. Actually, we went back to the town we had briefly visited the day before, Kuressaare, this time with a all-knowing tour guide to led our way. The main part of the tour settled on the local castle fortress, very nicely restored, complete with moat. Down though dolomite stone corridors and stairwell, this was certainly one of the better castles I've encounter since my Finnish trip back eight years ago. Another example of the nooks of history that Estonia possesses in its soil. There was even a skeleton of a knight built into a cellar, included with morbid tale of forbid love and the old punishments for impiety. It /is/ a Mideast castle after all. Though the stuffed animals in the basement were very worn and photogenic.
From the castle we moved to the crater lake, a perfectly round lake in the middle of a crater, were a meteorite hit (maybe) over 3,000 years ago. The exact time cannot be agreed, though legends of fire in the sea echo through the ages. No substantial or written evidence has been discovered. Yet. We then, various snacks in hand from the shop near the crater (I got these garlic bread bites...otherwise known as Bad Breath Producers), went forth to windmills. None of them were actually spinning, which is understandable, because I don't imagine that spinning lumber would be safe to be near unsupervised.
The last stop was one of the four ancient churches on the island. Our guide pointed out the pagan symbols meant to ward off evil spirits, something conflicting with the church setting. Churches have come a long ways.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Day 10: Island Paradise
Onward, away from Tartu, into the wilds of Estonia. Or at least onto a ferry and onto the island of Saaremaa.
I have to say, the more of the woods we see sliding past the bus windows, the more home, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, is brought to mind. Sure, there's less hills and different foliage but when waking up from a nap and looking dazed out at the landscape, the difference can't be told right away. There are the fields (except with more yellow flowers at times), the old farm houses, and the mix between evergreen and deciduous trees.
These are the thoughts that spin by during one of the more lengthy transits of the trip. That, and enjoying the new amount of space now that the San Diego section of our group went to St. Petersburg (somehow, I am not welding any huge sense of jealousy at that development).
A ferry ride on a smaller boat than I'm used to was different. Different mostly because though I thought I couldn't feel the rocking, my walking path would prove me drunken if I were on land. It swerved oddly no matter how hard I tried to take direct paths. The water was a merky green and the skies were gloomy, but the sea was relatively calm on the short ride to the island.
The island was bigger than expected. The "quick ride" to the tourist farm we were staying ended up being an hour, but that made the site of the destination all the more sweeter. Really. Cor. The tourist farm was a picture postcard of rustic Estonian life complete with comfortable beds, open fields, and some of the nicest layouts of food I've seen this entire trip. And the host was one of those sorts that made sure every detail was to the guest's satisfaction. Incredibly nice, nice, and nice. Good place to lay back and consider the trip so far and catch up on some reading in the fresh country air.
And a nap or two.
I have to say, the more of the woods we see sliding past the bus windows, the more home, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, is brought to mind. Sure, there's less hills and different foliage but when waking up from a nap and looking dazed out at the landscape, the difference can't be told right away. There are the fields (except with more yellow flowers at times), the old farm houses, and the mix between evergreen and deciduous trees.
These are the thoughts that spin by during one of the more lengthy transits of the trip. That, and enjoying the new amount of space now that the San Diego section of our group went to St. Petersburg (somehow, I am not welding any huge sense of jealousy at that development).
A ferry ride on a smaller boat than I'm used to was different. Different mostly because though I thought I couldn't feel the rocking, my walking path would prove me drunken if I were on land. It swerved oddly no matter how hard I tried to take direct paths. The water was a merky green and the skies were gloomy, but the sea was relatively calm on the short ride to the island.
The island was bigger than expected. The "quick ride" to the tourist farm we were staying ended up being an hour, but that made the site of the destination all the more sweeter. Really. Cor. The tourist farm was a picture postcard of rustic Estonian life complete with comfortable beds, open fields, and some of the nicest layouts of food I've seen this entire trip. And the host was one of those sorts that made sure every detail was to the guest's satisfaction. Incredibly nice, nice, and nice. Good place to lay back and consider the trip so far and catch up on some reading in the fresh country air.
And a nap or two.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Day 9: The Christmas Goat Cometh
Last day in Tartu. What was going to prove to be a very quiet day. In theory. In reality, that didn't happen because we ended up being yanked to the A. Le Coq Beer Museum and Brewery. I didn't expect much, we were told that only an Estonian guide was available so I foresaw the event being a session in extreme linquistic egg-tossing and/or charades.
This prediction did not turn out anywhere near the truth.
Thanks to the presence of a world-hopping Canadian with impeccable Estonian language skills, the tour through the beer making process and history was perhaps the best tour of the trip so far. And I'm not even a huge beer fan. There wasn't even any points where I was dazed and stared out the window at the local bird populations (usually pigeons or corvids). This gave a nice view of the importance of beer manufacturing in Estonia over the past few centuries and how the frothy liquid is made. That, and the old tour guide was just so gosh darn likable, with a quirk mixed in with the information that I don't think could have been presented better (our spur-of-the-moment translator totally helped). There was also free samples in the end. I have not much to say about that except for the bottles have have an awesome bottom that can actually open other beer bottles.
Europe has a different way of looking at beer than America does.
We went right to the Estonian National Museum from there and right into the midst of life-size versions of ancient dwellings and enough costumes to clothe most of Tartu and the outlaying regions. It's amazing how much tradition the country has retained despite being under the rule of other people for most of its existence. I see some similarities to Finnish culture but in all, its distinctly Estonian through and through. It's retained its own flavor of tradition and history and the Christmas goat. (And on that note: the Christmas goat is the best tradition costume ever. One of the more amusing remnants of Christmas tradition that I've seen in a museum. Plus, Santa sounds like a fly-by-night comedian who gets gifts for the bemusement he brings.) The puzzle games of old remain the same...and just about as maddening.
Last on the day's docket was the Estonian National Court, led by a legal minded guide who still gave a nice layout of both the building and how the legal system of Estonia works. I also find it interesting how its youngest member is only thirty and it actually has a sixty-eight year age limit. Definitely shows another example of A) how young Estonia is in its government and B) its open-mindedness to younger points of view. I just think of our own Supreme Court and all of members over the age of seventy that seem to be behind the gravel.
The rest of the day was filled with jelly-slathered pancake and a session of watching one our group ride a mechanical bull. And in between that, was a session of watching some beach volleyball.
This prediction did not turn out anywhere near the truth.
Thanks to the presence of a world-hopping Canadian with impeccable Estonian language skills, the tour through the beer making process and history was perhaps the best tour of the trip so far. And I'm not even a huge beer fan. There wasn't even any points where I was dazed and stared out the window at the local bird populations (usually pigeons or corvids). This gave a nice view of the importance of beer manufacturing in Estonia over the past few centuries and how the frothy liquid is made. That, and the old tour guide was just so gosh darn likable, with a quirk mixed in with the information that I don't think could have been presented better (our spur-of-the-moment translator totally helped). There was also free samples in the end. I have not much to say about that except for the bottles have have an awesome bottom that can actually open other beer bottles.
Europe has a different way of looking at beer than America does.
We went right to the Estonian National Museum from there and right into the midst of life-size versions of ancient dwellings and enough costumes to clothe most of Tartu and the outlaying regions. It's amazing how much tradition the country has retained despite being under the rule of other people for most of its existence. I see some similarities to Finnish culture but in all, its distinctly Estonian through and through. It's retained its own flavor of tradition and history and the Christmas goat. (And on that note: the Christmas goat is the best tradition costume ever. One of the more amusing remnants of Christmas tradition that I've seen in a museum. Plus, Santa sounds like a fly-by-night comedian who gets gifts for the bemusement he brings.) The puzzle games of old remain the same...and just about as maddening.
Last on the day's docket was the Estonian National Court, led by a legal minded guide who still gave a nice layout of both the building and how the legal system of Estonia works. I also find it interesting how its youngest member is only thirty and it actually has a sixty-eight year age limit. Definitely shows another example of A) how young Estonia is in its government and B) its open-mindedness to younger points of view. I just think of our own Supreme Court and all of members over the age of seventy that seem to be behind the gravel.
The rest of the day was filled with jelly-slathered pancake and a session of watching one our group ride a mechanical bull. And in between that, was a session of watching some beach volleyball.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Day 8: Going Wilde and Toying About
A relatively quiet day. I type this as I'm sitting in a park near the dorms near a statue of a bearded guy sitting with a book in his lap. He looks a little like Santa Claus in a robe. A nice place to reflect and get away from the rigors of adventuring through Tartu.
Today, the lecture topic, from the same lecturer as yesterday, Eiki Berg, traveled down the road of energy and border issues with Russia. As with most issues with Russia, there are many, many complications. The problem is that Estonia gets 100% of its natural gas from Russia. The other Baltic states have similar energy obligations. When you have those sorts of dependences with someone as unpredictable and odd as Russia, alternatives need to be found. The problem: where? Russia is the only accessible source at this time.
Then there's the weirdness with the Baltic Sea Gas Pipeline that is being proposed. The Nordic countries don't like the idea, but they've been outvoted by the rest of the EU countries. It seems a little uneven considering the building of it doesn't affect the countries voting for it. Yet another questionable circumstance of the EU influence.
The next part of the lecture dwelt with the border issues between southeast Estonia and Russia. This was interluded with political comics that give a toonish perspective on various parts of the issue. As it stands, it doesn't seem that the border will ever be ratified in the near future. The ambiguity is undesired, but its complicated for either side to back down, so a stalemate will have to do for now.
For lunch, we got lured to the Edward Wilde Cafe and Restaurant, where I ordered the tasty sounding "Fried Ravioli." And they were tasty. Just nice meat pockets o' fried dough. Complete with bread and, lo and behold, Butter. Though there has been bread served with most meals, Butter has not. It might be the American heart beating in my soul, but I've missed butter to put on my bread at a restaurant. (And its only been a week away. I'm a sad soul.) Even without the butter, the bread was still some of the best of the trip.
After posing on the Oscar Wilde sitting outside on a bench, we proceeded to wander forth to the KGB Cells Museum. It told of all the transgressions that Estonians had to face from the Russians and Germans in the 40s, and then onward from the Soviet control all the way until the 80s. From those sent to Siberia to the ones held in the cells we were shown. This just got more dark as we were told about the conditions and treatments they were subjected too. Obliviously the most depressing location we've visited so far. But I can see why such a museum needs to be there, to enlighten people to the dark past and to avoid similar horrible darkness in the future.
Finally, we wandered off back to old town. Off to the Artisan's House, where we saw wares from cloths and ribbons, to glass and fur. An impressive layout of some great pieces of art and a look at the people in the process of making them. Across the street, we caved and went to the Toy Museum. I think that images of teddy bears and Barbies shall be dancing through my daydreams for days afterwards...against my will. Fun place to wander about and see all those toys from the past that I would have wished I could have played with as a kid.
Only one more day to wander about Tartu.
Today, the lecture topic, from the same lecturer as yesterday, Eiki Berg, traveled down the road of energy and border issues with Russia. As with most issues with Russia, there are many, many complications. The problem is that Estonia gets 100% of its natural gas from Russia. The other Baltic states have similar energy obligations. When you have those sorts of dependences with someone as unpredictable and odd as Russia, alternatives need to be found. The problem: where? Russia is the only accessible source at this time.
Then there's the weirdness with the Baltic Sea Gas Pipeline that is being proposed. The Nordic countries don't like the idea, but they've been outvoted by the rest of the EU countries. It seems a little uneven considering the building of it doesn't affect the countries voting for it. Yet another questionable circumstance of the EU influence.
The next part of the lecture dwelt with the border issues between southeast Estonia and Russia. This was interluded with political comics that give a toonish perspective on various parts of the issue. As it stands, it doesn't seem that the border will ever be ratified in the near future. The ambiguity is undesired, but its complicated for either side to back down, so a stalemate will have to do for now.
For lunch, we got lured to the Edward Wilde Cafe and Restaurant, where I ordered the tasty sounding "Fried Ravioli." And they were tasty. Just nice meat pockets o' fried dough. Complete with bread and, lo and behold, Butter. Though there has been bread served with most meals, Butter has not. It might be the American heart beating in my soul, but I've missed butter to put on my bread at a restaurant. (And its only been a week away. I'm a sad soul.) Even without the butter, the bread was still some of the best of the trip.
After posing on the Oscar Wilde sitting outside on a bench, we proceeded to wander forth to the KGB Cells Museum. It told of all the transgressions that Estonians had to face from the Russians and Germans in the 40s, and then onward from the Soviet control all the way until the 80s. From those sent to Siberia to the ones held in the cells we were shown. This just got more dark as we were told about the conditions and treatments they were subjected too. Obliviously the most depressing location we've visited so far. But I can see why such a museum needs to be there, to enlighten people to the dark past and to avoid similar horrible darkness in the future.
Finally, we wandered off back to old town. Off to the Artisan's House, where we saw wares from cloths and ribbons, to glass and fur. An impressive layout of some great pieces of art and a look at the people in the process of making them. Across the street, we caved and went to the Toy Museum. I think that images of teddy bears and Barbies shall be dancing through my daydreams for days afterwards...against my will. Fun place to wander about and see all those toys from the past that I would have wished I could have played with as a kid.
Only one more day to wander about Tartu.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Day 7: The EU Boys' Club and Pineapple
The more I hear about the European Union, the more skeptical I become about it. Mostly because the more details I hear, the more it sounds like exclusive club that's really tough to qualify for. Some of the requirements make sense, but many of them end up sounding rather extraneous. The Turkey issue is one of the more questionable parts of the EU policies. From some view points, instead of expanding the rights of smaller countries, the EU appears to actually restain some rights, putting all the bigger countries in the group until main control (which brings back the issue of Turkey. If it were accepted it, it would just as powerful as the most populated EU member, Germany, and that is something the major power really don't want).
Estonia wanted to be in the EU more for a symbolic status, to achieve the mythical "back to Europe" aesthetic. But in the long run, was that the right choice? Again, only the future can tell.
After this extreme four hour dive into Estonian and EU economics, a lunch was required. I took a safe risk with pancakes stuffed with chicken. What one must remember when ordering anything on a European menu, what is on the menu is not always the full story. There is also some little quirk that they add to the mix that makes you raise a brow.
In this case, it was the pineapple chunked among the chicken. I guess it sooooorta makes sense, to add a little sweetness, but it really didn't work for me. Didn't help that it wasn't the most quality of chicken either. The pancake...well, it was a Nordic style thin pancake. I feel bad that the pancake was lost within the package. It deserved better, like strawberry jam. I think I shall arrange that before I leave Tartu.
I met with the Tallinn girl and her Denmark friend at pancake cafe near the town square (which, if I haven't mentioned, has the Cheesiest Fountain Ever of who lovers kissing under an umbrella. It requires photos at some point.) Even more random conversation transpired. They might be following me to Saaremaa, the island we're visiting this weekend...but at a different part of the island perhaps.
The day tied with a Baltic restaurant with possibly the best meatball I have ever tasted. Well, besides my mom's meatballs, but I'm required by unspoken law to say that. It had just the right mix of spices to make each bite downright heavenly. A pity there was only two largish ones. I also polished off the feta cheese left over from the stuffed red pepper (the pepper had been share amoung the group). There was also wine. We got a crash course in wine testing from one of our group so that I was using words like "subtle bite" and "smooth taste" to describe it.
Very nice restaurant to tie up the day. Complete with somewhat heated debate about philosophy books about politics and war and religion. Also the art of classics versus the joy of fluff reads. Good times.
Estonia wanted to be in the EU more for a symbolic status, to achieve the mythical "back to Europe" aesthetic. But in the long run, was that the right choice? Again, only the future can tell.
After this extreme four hour dive into Estonian and EU economics, a lunch was required. I took a safe risk with pancakes stuffed with chicken. What one must remember when ordering anything on a European menu, what is on the menu is not always the full story. There is also some little quirk that they add to the mix that makes you raise a brow.
In this case, it was the pineapple chunked among the chicken. I guess it sooooorta makes sense, to add a little sweetness, but it really didn't work for me. Didn't help that it wasn't the most quality of chicken either. The pancake...well, it was a Nordic style thin pancake. I feel bad that the pancake was lost within the package. It deserved better, like strawberry jam. I think I shall arrange that before I leave Tartu.
I met with the Tallinn girl and her Denmark friend at pancake cafe near the town square (which, if I haven't mentioned, has the Cheesiest Fountain Ever of who lovers kissing under an umbrella. It requires photos at some point.) Even more random conversation transpired. They might be following me to Saaremaa, the island we're visiting this weekend...but at a different part of the island perhaps.
The day tied with a Baltic restaurant with possibly the best meatball I have ever tasted. Well, besides my mom's meatballs, but I'm required by unspoken law to say that. It had just the right mix of spices to make each bite downright heavenly. A pity there was only two largish ones. I also polished off the feta cheese left over from the stuffed red pepper (the pepper had been share amoung the group). There was also wine. We got a crash course in wine testing from one of our group so that I was using words like "subtle bite" and "smooth taste" to describe it.
Very nice restaurant to tie up the day. Complete with somewhat heated debate about philosophy books about politics and war and religion. Also the art of classics versus the joy of fluff reads. Good times.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Day 6: Disconcerting Statues and Estonian Independence
Tartu is much like my own college down, except with older buildings, cobblestone streets, and a disconcerting amount of statues. With all the cafes and bookstores and general college atmosphere, it also brings Ann Arbor to mind. I like it better than the more closed in streets and tall industrial buildings of Tallinn.
There is also no way to get lost in this town. Sooner or later you'll make it back to the city square, no matter what wooded path you might take. I had a fun time wandering about for an hour between lectures, encountering monuments and statues aplenty, a boy and his dog, two lovers on the Dome Hill (I think i was interrupting), and the structures of a bombed semi-reconstructed cathedral. It has a nice quiet atmosphere that you don't get in Tallinn...that, and I believe that most of the potential tourists were at the Song Festival.
The lectures opened up new doors to Estonian culture. First was the talk on economics, that went pretty in depth on all the aspects of the rise and now decline of the Estonian finacial climate. Estonia, of course, had huge increases in the economy since the fall of the Soviet Union when they gained independence. The only question is how far they could go until their highly liberal tactics came back to haunt them. What effect will being partnered with the EU have? Where do they go from here? Where they are right now remains undisturbed grown and the future is a huge question mark.
The second lecture explained some of the chances they took in forming their economy. Dr, Marju Lauristin gave us the sociology perspective of Estonia during and after the fall of the Soviet control. Before they gained independence, they had a better view of how a free country worked through watching Finnish television. That was the only link to the outside world that they had. So when they were released, part of them already leaned towards a more Scandinavian policy. In the end, they just tried to be as different than the Soviet system that they could. It was a younger country run by a young generation who made many new and radial policies to get the country up and running. Now, after the transition, the same question mark appears. Where does Estonia go now that the economy is tapering off? What is their position in Europe? The trail goes forth into a haze.
There is also no way to get lost in this town. Sooner or later you'll make it back to the city square, no matter what wooded path you might take. I had a fun time wandering about for an hour between lectures, encountering monuments and statues aplenty, a boy and his dog, two lovers on the Dome Hill (I think i was interrupting), and the structures of a bombed semi-reconstructed cathedral. It has a nice quiet atmosphere that you don't get in Tallinn...that, and I believe that most of the potential tourists were at the Song Festival.
The lectures opened up new doors to Estonian culture. First was the talk on economics, that went pretty in depth on all the aspects of the rise and now decline of the Estonian finacial climate. Estonia, of course, had huge increases in the economy since the fall of the Soviet Union when they gained independence. The only question is how far they could go until their highly liberal tactics came back to haunt them. What effect will being partnered with the EU have? Where do they go from here? Where they are right now remains undisturbed grown and the future is a huge question mark.
The second lecture explained some of the chances they took in forming their economy. Dr, Marju Lauristin gave us the sociology perspective of Estonia during and after the fall of the Soviet control. Before they gained independence, they had a better view of how a free country worked through watching Finnish television. That was the only link to the outside world that they had. So when they were released, part of them already leaned towards a more Scandinavian policy. In the end, they just tried to be as different than the Soviet system that they could. It was a younger country run by a young generation who made many new and radial policies to get the country up and running. Now, after the transition, the same question mark appears. Where does Estonia go now that the economy is tapering off? What is their position in Europe? The trail goes forth into a haze.
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